Embu Natal das Artes

On Sunday we headed out to Embu just a few miles west of Patricia's home in Taboao de Serra. Embu is the Jesuit settlement constructed beginning in 1553 on a mission to convert local Indians and use them as farm workers in the region. This is one of the earliest settlements that evidentially lead to the huge population of the city of Sao Paulo.

In recent years Embu has been revived by Feira de Artes and Artesanato, a street fair of arts and artisans that make crafts, ceramics, woodcarving, play music with original Brasilian instruments, dancing and foods. Since 1969, the Embu Feira has opened every weekend and the surrounding streets are filled with antique shops and furniture stores.

Feira's are everywhere in Brazil from the inner cities with fruit, produce, meat, and spices to arts and to the villages were you'll find crafts and antiques but Embu is special for its arts and crafts as well as historical significance.

On this particular weekend in December there are special dances and musical groups in celebration of Natal or Christmas. The streets are bristling with shoppers looking for craft items and art to give as Christmas presents. I still find it difficult to image Christmas without the snow or see a heavily clad Santa with white beard and flannel red sleeves and cap and feel he is out of his element.

Patricia's friend and former teaching colleague Andrea is a single mother who lives in Embu with her teenage daughter Miriam. Andrea was first a English student of Patricia's and then they became co-teachers and, as Andrea pointed out, Patricia was her boss.

Andrea's daughter Miriam was very excited to speak with us in English. She is highly motivated to learn English and very much would like to follow in Patricia's footsteps and come to the United States to learn more English. Miriam also wears a kind of scarey tee-shirt with Ozzie Osborn done up with his goth make-up and goolish appearance. These are the kids who love America and find our culture fascinating.

Andrea teaches English in an American Catholic School called Chapel. Most of the Paulista kids who attend Chapel are privileged but Andrea also volunteers her time teaching English to poor children because she believes in committing herself to changing Brazil and providing opportunity to those less fortunate who cannot afford private Catholic education.

On the hill there is a very old Chapel called the Capela Sao Lazaro where Patricia sits on the front stairs of these sky blue painted front with beveled windows and white trim. We are instantly taken back 400 years when this chapel probably rested alone on the steep hill overlooking the valley. The simple Chapel with wood plank benches, floors and doors is closed for renovations at this time. Today small brightly painted buidling is surrounded by nice single family homes, well kept restaurants, and a newly revived nightclub and disco scene in the village of Embu.

Even though we must walk up and down hills that by Minnesota standards would be considered mountains, unlike Sao Paulo that feels like New York or London, Embu makes us really feel like we are in South America among indigenous people with a long history on this continent. Modernity has left the house.